sweeney todd straight razor

Beginners guide for a straight razor

This guide is intended to help all those who want to use straight razor. They’ve read a ton of things on how to shave, they have learned in a platonic way what scale is suitable for beginners etc etc. And they finally decide to buy one….

  • What should I get from the 172 options with good reviews of creams n soaps?
  • Which brush? From another 2000 options?
  • Finally, which “navaja de afeitar” straight razor???

Since you still do not know whether you are going to stay in the long road of wet shave. I suggest you things to a more settle budget.

Rule #1

I Get any cream/soap that I think I will like the perfume and I’ve read good reviews about skin protection.

Such, in my opinion are:

  • Proraso (white or green) which can be found at a price between 4,80-7 € at online stores.
  • Taylor of the old bond street (TOBS for short). I and many other around the world consider them as the best value for money. They usualy have 2 versions, tube and bowl. I suggest the bowl, as it has twice as much product and only 1 € difference in price. The best price I’ve found is at 9 €.
  • Speick, which is made out of speick plant that grows in Alps. Only in soap stick, price is about 4-5 €.

Rule #2

The brush is a key element of our hardware so make sure you do not get one something with 6 € (in the super market) while with 16 € you are getting a real tool. Main categories depending on how soft the bristles are:

  1. Boar
  2. Horse
  3. Badger
    1. Pure badger
    2. Best badger
    3. Super badger
    4. Silvertip

Boar, the proposed brands you should look are 2: Omega and Semogue.
Famous of omega is the professional 48, just 9 €
Famous Semogue is in 1305, with just 14 €.
Of course there are many more but you can look for yourself.

Horse, only the Spanish vie long. Very good models are 13061 and 13800
n websites across Europe you can find it only through the giftsandcare store.

Pure Badger, good quality by all known good companies, muhle, omega, rooney, kent, edwin jagger etc. And at various prices.
Any price between 22 and 30 € is good enough. My suggestion would be one from muhle.

Best badger, many options here, countless brands, generally same as above (pure badger). Price that should range is from 25-35 €, but no more. A good suggestion is the Muhle 99 A 31.

For the other two categories I will not write as they refer to the ones that are already “skilled” in this, which have settled, actually like wet shave and have taken the decision to spend some extra money.

Finally the time has come that all have been waiting for. The moment of truth.

Which one is our favorite;

Rule #3

There are different types of straight razors for you to choose.
3/8, 4/8, 5/8, 6/8, 7/8 /, 8/8.
Also, full hollow, semi hollow.
Which one of all is suitable for someone who just makes his first steps in this world?

Criteria #1

Do not look the cheapest nor the most expensive. The cheap, because it will not be well made and it will prevent us from our will to continue and we will be convinced that the straight razor does a shitty job. Expensive does not interest us as we do not know if you’ll like for not wet shave. So why throw the money ultimately?

Criterion #2

It has to do with the full hollow and semi hollow. The full hollow is best for a beginner because they show more kindness to small mistakes that you are probably going to make at the beginning as they are built for lighter beard. But nothing is absolute and nicks and cuts will happen with the one or the other.

Criterion #3

The price that should have our first straight razor.
From 50 to 80 € you can find a good razor that is NOS (New Old Stock), ie the company that produces it closed and have run some parts of models that can be built for 50 years and have been never used before! So unused tool is taken at very advantageous prise. Alternatively you can find used straight razors in excellent condition. But in this case request detailed pictures from the seller and write to us in the forum to check them. We will say our opinion if something is good or not. Finally (and more suitable for a beginner), you can find new razors if you go up a little bit higher to the prise, with around 90-120 € you can have a very good tool like the King cutter Boker or the Bismarck Dovo.

Criterion #4

Let’s talk now about the scales of straight razor, what we said above, 3/8 /, 4/8 etc.
The two best sizes for beginners are 5/8 and 6/8.Not that they are not good for an experienced user.

-What have the 5/8 and 6/8 more than the other sizes?
The reason is simply weight. This means better grip! The smallest of them glide easily and make different and dangerous “maneuvers” in the hands of a novice.

Criterion #5

What is a “shave ready”razor?  True or urban legend?
You will see many times in different site in the description of the condition, “shave ready”. This means that if you buy this razor it does not require any sharpening (honing) and can be used after you have it some strokes on your leather. Of course by mentioning it, it does not make it so. 99% of cases are not shave ready even if it says so in the description. So it is an urban legend. When you get your razor you should always give it to someone who can hone it for you in order to make sharpen the edge. There is a topic in the forum called grinding shops and there you can find where you can give your razor.

So, to recap…

We have:

  1. 5/8 or 6/8
  2. Full hollow
  3. New 90-120 € “suggested” or NOS or used in good

For brands look up the article of fellow “slur” on the good brands. Again, some of them that you should definitely look at.

  • DOVO
  • Thiers issard
  • C.V. Heljestrand
  • Dubl Duck
  • Boker

Happy shopping is wishing us ElNavajero, you can read more here.